If, like me, you’ve ever wondered why the Galilee city of Karmiel is such a great example of ‘countryside in the city’ there appears to be a very good reason for it.
The modern Israeli town is only 56 years old but boasts the protected ruins of nine separate Byzantine Christian sites.
These range from a railed-off wine press in Rabin Park to rough stonework marking the former presence of two churches at Tel Bata.
Once a fortified village, the site is located on a high hill on Karmiel’s east side and is accessed from a dirt road that starts from Yodfat Street, which leads to the car park next to the town hall.
Although a Karmieli for ten years, I was unaware that it existed until I read a local newspaper feature in which native Israeli resident and cameraman Kobi Friedman bemoaned its dereliction.
“'I spent most of my childhood on this hill with many others like me. The hill was full of natural treasures that occupied us as children, and we always knew to beware of the pits or caves that exist in the area.
“’In recent years, the hill has become the garbage can of the southern neighbourhood’”, he wrote.
But when I went to look for myself, either I chose the wrong spot or renovation had already begun as there was little evident rubbish present.
Although the main gate was locked and barred to vehicles, I was able to enter the area on foot.
The terrain is rough – after all the site’s name ‘bata’ translates as ‘scrubland’. But I saw at least one hazardous looking area firmly behind barbed wire and noticed that only the plinth holding the degel (Israeli flag) erect was despoilt by graffiti.
But as I am neither an archaeologist nor a ‘veteran’ resident like Friedman, I enjoyed a simple half-hour strolling through Tel Bata and its many pretty wildflowers, concluding with a stop at the ‘summit’ with its excellent 360 degree view of the area.
** An in-depth look at Tel Bata and the other ancient sites is to appear soon on the website of the Karmiel English Speakers’ Club.
© Natalie Wood (24 November 2020)
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